Nålbinding: Connecting of threads

At some stage our working thread is used up, gets shorter and shorter and a new thread has to be connected.
 
Here I show three methods, those differ in their felting properties:

1. Thread material will felt
 
2. Thread material will felt partially
 
3. Thread material will not felt
 

1. Fadenmaterial ist filzbar

Picture 1

Usually Nålbinding projects are worked in pure wool. In our example we have used hand spun, two-ply pure wool.
 

Both ends of the threads are split for 3 to 5 cm, ...

Picture 2

...and the split ends are pushed in a way into each other that the single treads interlock.
With thicker multi-ply yarns some single threads can be taken out to avoid the connection to become to thick. 3 cm of one single thread are enough for materials that felt easily.
 
The split and interlocked threads are twisted together and…

Picture 3

… dampened for felting. Rub the connection between the palms of your hands first with slight pressure, then increasingly stronger. The resulting warmth is intentional and helps with the felting process.
I put the connection into my mouth to moisten it with my saliva. At the same time I full this part with my teeth slightly backwards and forwards and afterwards rub it between the palms of my hands until the connection zone is dry. When dry but not felted completely I moisten it again and rub once more.

If you do not like to put the woollen thread into your mouth, just moisten your hand, put the twisted connection into and then rub with both hands.

Whether saliva or simple water is used for moisturizing, is a personal choice.
In any case the palms of your hands should be clean. Very important, if naturally dyed material is used first, followed by undyed wool!

Picture 4

To test the durability of the felted part, I rub from the new thread towards the main part of the work. If loose threads are still visible, the connection has not been done properly. A short test pull shows how durable the connection has been worked.

I especially value a good connecting point, because it is a lot of work once a connection comes apart while working on the project.
 
If the connection does not pass this test, I use one of the other methods instead.

2. Thread material will felt partially

Picture 5

If we are using Moorland sheep's' wool with guard hair or wool with a share of polyester that will not felt, a method is recommended whereby only one end of thread is split and the split ends are tied crosswise around the other end of the thread.

The old end of the working thread is split - the end, which still hangs off the Nålbinding project.

Picture 6

The old and the new thread are held overlapping for a few millimetres and the split threads are held between thumb and forefinger or ring finger as shown in the picture. This hand holds the "old" thread; the right hand holds the "new" one.

First I twist one single thread fully around the new thread with the other hand and tuck it in, then follows the other. I twist interchangeably and work along the new thread twist by twist….

Picture 7

..until all the single threads are fully twisted around.
 
The moisturizing of the connecting part, the felting and testing works the same as in the first method shown. It is important to watch out for the tips of the single threads. If necessary, those have to be dampened and felted in a few times.

3. Thread material will not felt

Picture 8

The old thread is pulled from the needle and stays loose on the left side of the thumb. It should be shortened to a length, which is long enough to be sewn in.

Picture 9

The new thread is threaded into the needle. A normal loop is worked with the still existing forward thumb mesh formed by the old thread. A new forward thumb mesh cannot form because the old and the new thread are not connected.

Picture 10

Repeat the same stitch again through the same meshes.

Picture 11

After this second stitch into the same meshes is completed, the new forward thumb mesh has formed. .
 

We can see, from the right to the left:

1. The last bit of the old working thread
2. The actual working thread
3. The starter end of the new working thread.
   

Picture 12

My tip:
Sew those rascals in as soon as possible. But at least one row should have been worked over the connecting part. In the opposite picture three loose threads are visible, the one from the start and those two at the connection point of the new working thread.
Now would be the perfect time to sew in all three of them.

By the way, a pair of gloves has been worked out of this beginning and another one like it.