Evolution of Indian Salwar Kameez

Indian Salwar kameez has emerged to be the most popular costume and of the pan-Indian variety in the history of the textiles of India. Though, later in origin from the sari, which traces its origin to the Vedic times, the kameez salwar saree has emerged as the comfortable, elegant and respectful apparel of the Indian wardrobe. Essentially a medieval garment the kameez salwar in its original form was brought into the country by the Muslim rulers, from the year 750 A.D. salwar kameez was brought into India as a courtly garment from the central Asian invaders, and slowly became the popular garment of the people of the countryside with the spread of Islam. The men and women both wore different forms of what is today known as the Indian kameez salwar. and women both wore different forms of what is today known as the Indian kameez salwar.

Indian dressing styles are marked by many variations, both religious and regional with a wide choice of textures and styles. Indians have been very fashionable from the very ancient times if the sculptural evidence is anything to go by. Cotton cloth has always been worn in India by the masses while the rich favored the use of silks. Elaborate head-dresses and jewelry were even sported by men.The earlier dress code revolved around wrapping the body with varied lengths of cloth.

Indian salwar resemble a pyjama drawn tightly in at the waist with a string and is tailored in such a way that it tapers at the ankles. The ‘kameez’ is worn over the ‘salwar’. This is a long shapely outfit, which resembles a long shirt. The most common pattern has sleeves up to the wrists, slits on the sides, a mandarin collar with buttons in front. Instead of a ‘salwar’, women also wear a ‘churidar’. This is a tighter version of the ‘salwar’ accentuating the knees and ankles. The ‘salwar-kameez’ is usually worn with the ‘dupatta’. This is a rectangle cloth made of very thin cotton or synthetic material used to cover the head and the chest.

The women wore their costumes in three parts.The shirts were very small extending upto the abdomen, with a rich embroidery and Zardozi work that were first brought into the country. The bottoms were known as the Sharara, which were a loose flowing gown divided in between. The heads were always covered with the Dupatta, which was both a mark of respect and honor. Like all garments have transformed with time, so has the salwar kameez. With its descent from the courtly to the everyday costume, it became more localized and the regional dress in the northern parts of the country , like in Punjab and Haryana. With the freedom movement in the country the shalwar kamiz acquired a more nationalistic and broader base often stretching to other parts of the country. Today the costume is synonymous with the national costume of the country along with the sari. Salwar Kameez and saree are worn mainly by the women of northern India but is favored all over India by now. It includes a baggy pair of pyjamas called Indian Salwars, worn with a long and flowing shirt called Kameez.

The Kashmiri and the Himachali women wear a similar dress. Theirs is thicker to suit to the climate and the embroidery done on them is particular to the region. In Lucknow, the baggy pajamas are replaced by tight and long leggings that form many folds at the ankles. These are called churidars, suggesting 'bangles'. So comfortable is the dress that it is worn by most working women across India. The forms of the salwar kameez have changed with the changing fashions of the times and they have been tried out with various traditional combinations like the Lacha/lachcha, Sharara, etc. and more contemporary forms like the parallel trousers. Even with the changes in time it remains a costume that describes comfort and elegance.

The phenomenon of Salwar Kameez occupies an exalted place in the pages of Indian history and one, which will not be easily replaced. Many phenomenons’ may come and go, but this one will have a slot, which will be a glittering one. Indian History is replete with many such phenomenal impacts and will continue to be so in the years to come by. But the phenomenon of Salwar Kameez, will be an enduring one like that other great phenomenon - the greatest eve mega star of Indian filmdom - Amitabh Bachchan.